Innovative Fibres
After the negative impact of many traditional practices became evident, the textile industry has begun to recognise the need to move towards more responsible models.
The search for more sustainable fibres is an important part of this change, and biotechnology is emerging as an ally by enabling the creation of functional and biodegradable materials.
In this article, we explore six emerging fibres that reflect the sector's evolution, the new trends in yarns and smart fabrics, and the industry's evolution towards biodegradable fashion, with an entrepreneurial vision.
1. Mycelium: a non-animal alternative to leather
Mycelium is an alternative to leather without animal origin.
Mycelium is the underground structure of fungi, which can be cultivated under controlled conditions to generate a dense and flexible matrix. This biomaterial has been refined to have characteristics similar to animal leather.
US companies such as Mylo™ and Reishi™ have successfully scaled functional prototypes, collaborating with well-known brands such as Adidas or the designer Stella McCartney.
The mycelium offers important advantages: it is biodegradable and adaptable, does not represent animal suffering, and is free of the toxic products commonly used in tanning.
However, large-scale production remains a challenge, both in terms of infrastructure and cost.
2. Bacterial cellulose: natural resistance from fermentation
Another interesting fibre is bacterial cellulose, a material generated by the fermentation of certain types of bacteria, such as Acetobacter xylinum. Through this process, a thin, flexible and resistant sheet is obtained.
Acetobacter xylinum is a material that is already being used in experimental and sustainable fashion projects, thanks to its physical properties and the possibility of being moulded into the desired shape.
However, its limitations are its slow production speed and high cost, which restricts its use to artistic initiatives or research prototypes.
Yet it represents an opportunity towards the development of smart fabrics created in laboratories with minimal environmental impact.
Smart fabrics are a great opportunity for the development of smart fabrics.
3. PLA and PHA: bioplastics that go into textiles
PLA is obtained from renewable resources such as corn starch, while the action of sugar-fed bacteria produces PHA.
Both materials can be transformed into biodegradable fibres, resistant to water and wear, and are being explored for technical and sports applications. PLA has already been used in garment making, packaging and 3D printing filaments.
However, its compostability can be a drawback as it requires industrial facilities, as it does not disintegrate naturally in any environment.
In addition, their industrial production requires high levels of energy. Despite this, bioplastics can become a source of innovative yarns.
Bioplastics can be a source of innovative yarns.
4. Seaweed fibres: SeaCell and other oceanic fibres
Seaweed has started to be used as a raw material for new textile fibres. One example is SeaCell, a fibre created by combining algae with cellulose, which is soft to the touch, lightweight and has beneficial properties for the skin.
This type of yarn is particularly attractive in the wellness and sportswear sector, which is looking for functional and sustainable materials. Its production does not compete with terrestrial agriculture and can be carried out without the use of pesticides and fertilisers.
Despite its advantages, its commercial application is still limited, mainly because of the cost of extraction and processing. However, these fibres could extend their reach and become a key resource for the fashion of the future.
5. Fibres from chemicals: giving new life to waste
Chemical fibres are born from the use of industrial waste. A pioneering example is Orange Fibre, an Italian startup that uses by-products from the orange juice industry to create silky and breathable yarns.
The production of these fibres manages food waste, obtaining a product with functional properties, light, fresh fibres suitable for summer garments or luxury textiles. Brands such as Salvatore Ferragamo have already incorporated Orange Fibre in their collections.
The model is presented as an exemplary case of sustainable innovation that combines biotechnology, design and circular economy, opening up opportunities to replicate this approach with other organic waste.
6. Milk fibres: sustainability from protein
Although little known, the history of milk fibre dates back to the 20th century, and has been revived by the German company Qmilch, which reuses caseína unfit for human consumption to make a soft, antibacterial and biodegradable yarn.
This fibre stands out for its luxurious texture and its eco-friendly manufacturing process, which requires little water and uses no harsh chemicals. In addition, it has thermoregulatory properties and decomposes naturally.
Despite its qualities, milk fibre has generated ethical debates, especially among vegan consumers, due to the use of animal by-products.
However, for other sectors, it represents a realistic alternative for reusing surplus food to create textiles.
Strategic opportunity for a more innovative industry
The integration of biotechnology in the development of new fibres has opened a transformational stage for the textile sector.
While many of these innovations have yet to reach large-scale production, their evolution is accelerating, driven by sustainability demands and the interest of conscious brands.
They are also being developed at an accelerated pace.
In this new landscape, biodegradable fashion, smart fabrics, and new trends in yarn are converging to redefine how we dress and what materials we choose.
For companies looking to differentiate themselves, investing in these emerging fibres is not only an ethical decision, but also a competitive innovation strategy.
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