Mechanical vs. Chemical Textile Recycling

The textile industry has undergone a series of important changes in recent years, driven by increasing regulatory pressure in various countries, more conscious consumers and scarcity of natural resources. In this context, sustainability is no longer a trend but a strategic necessity.

In addition to the challenge of managing post-consumer waste, companies in the sector must optimise post-industrial flows and move towards a more sustainable textile supply chain.

In the following, we analyse the two main forms of textile recycling, mechanical and chemical, with a practical and strategic approach to facilitate decision-making at the business level.

Mechanical textile recycling: the consolidated and efficient approach

Mechanical textile recycling is the most commonly used method. It consists of shredding or shredding garments and textile waste to obtain new fibres that can be re-spun or used in non-woven products.

It is a proven technology, with an operational infrastructure that allows for large-scale implementation and is constantly being optimised.

Strategic advantages:

• Lower initial investment and operating costs: Compared to chemical textile recycling, mechanical recycling requires less complex infrastructure, reducing initial investment and operating costs.
• Robust and proven process: Machinery for this type of textile recycling is widely available on the market.
• Smaller immediate environmental footprint: The process is not water—or energy-intensive and does not use chemicals, making it a more sustainable alternative to virgin fibre production.
• Ideal for mono-component fibres and pre-consumer waste: It is most suitable for recycling textiles composed of a single fibre type, such as 100% cotton, wool, or pure polyester, and for managing pre-consumer industrial waste, such as garment trimmings.

Limitations and considerations:

• Downcycling: Mechanically recycled fibres are shorter and more fragile, which limits their application to lower value products or makes it necessary to blend them with virgin fibres.
• Difficulty with blends: Complex textile compositions (such as polycotton or woven fabrics with elastane) are not easily separated by mechanical processes.

Industrial applications:

Mechanical textile recycling makes it possible to manufacture regenerated yarns, non-woven textiles, fillings for thermal or acoustic insulation, and even components for industrial composites. It represents an effective solution for managing certain types of waste.

Chemical textile recycling: the promise of high-value circularity

Chemical recycling transforms textile fibres at the molecular level. Through processes such as solvent dissolution or depolymerisation, fibres of "near virgin" quality are recovered and can be reintroduced into the textile cycle. This approach completes circularity, even with mixed or contaminated materials.

Key competitive advantages:

• Superior fibre quality: Unlike mechanical recycling, it yields fibres comparable to virgin fibres, suitable for high-value textiles.
• Versatility with blends: Offers the ability to process complex textile blends (such as cotton-polyester), making it a key solution for large-scale post-consumer recycling.
• Access to new markets: Opens the door to high-end circular products, allowing brands to differentiate themselves and comply with demanding regulations.
• Brand differentiation: Using chemically recycled materials strengthens the values of sustainability and innovation, which is attractive to consumers.

Challenges and barriers to adoption:

• High capital investment: Requires sophisticated infrastructure and higher technological investment.
• Technological maturity: Many processes are in pilot or industrial scale-up stages, with a return on investment in the medium to long term.
• Chemical management: The use of solvents must be carried out under strict safety and sustainability criteria, although work continues on the development of more environmentally friendly solutions.

Innovations and opportunities:

Companies like Infinited Fiber Company or Re:newcell are leading the transition to scalable chemical recycling. Their processes enable the recovery of recycled cellulose, viscose or polyester to high-quality standards, paving the way for truly circular fashion.

Towards a circular textile future

Textile recycling, both mechanical and chemical, is an essential tool for reducing environmental impact and increasing competitiveness in the industry. Each approach presents unique opportunities that, if well exploited, can transform waste into usable resources.

For B2B players, investing in these technologies and establishing strategic alliances will be key to adapting to new regulations, improving traceability and leading the transition to a fashion circular economy.

Sustainability, far from being a cost, represents a competitive advantage and a clear path to innovation and growth.

You may also be interested in:

• The Recycling of Wool
• Recycled Yarn Production Process
• RETEXCAT project
• How to Apply Circular Economy in the Textile Industry
• Designers of Recycled Yarns